It is assumed that the user is experienced in static wheel balance; therefore, the actual balancing procedure is not covered here. Click here to review the Motorcycle Wheel Balancing Procedure The balancer assembly includes the following parts: · Two bearing blocks · One ˝” x 12" tool steel axle · Two spade head wing screws · One 17 or 20mm OD short adapter · One 17 or 20mm OD long adapter The user supplies two supports of the same height to support the balancer and wheel. A pair of milk crates or cinder blocks work well. They must be taller than the radius of the tallest wheel you are going to work on. In our shop we use a pair of jack stands available at most auto parts chains for less than $15. Here is a link to the set we purchased at Kragen. Slip one of the adapters through the seal race and bearing so that the adapter flange is pressed up against the seal race. Do the same for the other side. For the rear wheel the long adapter is used on the drive side of the wheel and the short adapter on the other side. The front wheel doesn't matter. Slide the steel axle through both adapters. Situate the axle so it is centered using the tire as the reference point. Secure one of the adapters to the shaft by tightening the wing screw. Push the remaining adapter against the seal race and tighten its wing screw. Try to orientate the wing screws 180° from each other so they don't effect the balance. Both adapters need to be snug against their respective bearing races. An easy way to do this is to press on the remaining adapter with one hand while pulling on the shaft with your other hand. Once you have it where you want it hold both the adapter and shaft with one hand and tighten the wing screw with the other. Sounds difficult but it is actually quite natural once you try it. Slide a bearing block onto each end of the axle. Slide it on only far enough so that the axle is fully through the bearing block. Now take the assembled wheel and balancer and position it between your two supports so that the bearing blocks are holding up the assembly and the wheel is free to spin. You’ll notice the result is an almost friction-free mounting which will allow for a very accurate balance.
A note about the wing screws
As you use the wing screws the end that contacts the shaft will most likely mushroom slightly depending on how hard you tighten them. This is because the screw is softer than the shaft and because the screw threads run all the way to the end. When you loosen the screw you only need to turn it very slightly so in use the mushroomed portion of the screw never comes in contact with the threads in the cone. The only time you might notice that the screw end is mushroomed would be if you removed the screw completely. In this case you may find the screw snug or turns uneven. This is normal and does not present any problem. Maintenance Tips
In order to prevent the screw threads in the aluminum cones and adaptors from wearing please remove the screws and lightly grease them from time to time. Please don't use oil or WD40. I used a lithium based "white" grease when I initially assembled them for you but any type of grease will work fine.
Since the shaft is steel it will rust in damp environs. Spraying it occasionally with WD40 will keep it looking new for years to come. Any nicks that develop in the axle can be smoothed using fine emery paper. Please be careful when handling the adaptors. If you drop them they might get damaged and if they land on their nose and it gets distorted you will not be able to slide the axle through the bore since there is only .003" clearance. Guess how I know! If this happens please return the adaptor and I will repair it for you if possible. Please don't try to repair the bore yourself. The bearings are shielded and sealed for life so there is no maintenance required. Your satisfaction is absolutely essential. If you have any concerns please let me know so they can be resolved. If you have any questions or comments please leave feedback. Thank you! | 
