Motorcycle Wheel Balancer Setup

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It is assumed that the user is experienced in static wheel balance; therefore, the actual balancing procedure is not covered here. Click here to review the Motorcycle Wheel Balancing Procedure

The balancer assembly includes the following parts:

· Two bearing blocks

· One ½” x 12" tool steel axle. (Custom length axles are available)

· One ¼"-20 spade head wing screw per cone or adaptor where required.

· Various cone and adapter configurations depending on the application.

The user supplies two supports of the same height to support the balancer and wheel. A pair of milk crates or cinder blocks work well. They must be taller than the radius of the tallest wheel you are going to work on. In our shop we use a pair of jack stands available at most auto parts chains for less than $15. Here is a link to the set we purchased at Kragen.

Universal UNIV and FZB come with two 1.45" diameter cones. They can be used on either side.

Aprilia Single-Sided APF comes with two compound angle cones of different diameters. The 2.75" cone is used on the drive side of the rear wheel along with the 2.5" cone on the other side. You can use them on either side of the front wheel.

BMW Paralever BML comes with cones of different lengths. The 1" cone is used on the drive side of the rear wheel and the 1.75" cone on the other side. The factory BMW rear wheel adapter is NOT NEEDED. The front wheel uses the 1.75" cone on the speedometer drive side (when equipped) and the 1" cone on the other side.

BMW F650CS comes with four cones, two Universals and two special cones for the rear wheel. The larger cones are for the rear wheel and the smaller cones are for the front wheel. One of the large cones has a wing screw in it and is used on either side of the rear wheel. The large cone without a wing screw is used in conjunction with one of the small cones on the other side of the rear wheel. Assemble the large cone against the wheel hub and use the small cone to press against the large cone to hold it in place.

BMW F800S/ST F8S is the same as the BG12 below. It currently is coming with (2) pairs of plastic spacers because I'm not sure which set is the best length. If you could let me know I would appreciate it.

BMW R12GS/RT/S/ST/R, K12R/S/GT BG12 comes with two cones and one rear wheel adapter with (4) plastic spacers and (2) thumb screws. The two cones are used on the front wheel. The adapter attaches to the rear wheel by sliding it in from the drive side. The thumb screws and washers or spacers hold the adapter in place without marring the paintwork. Please refer to the pictures below.

There are (2) pairs of plastic spacers. One pair is 1/2" long and the other pair is 3/4" long. Use the 1/2" spacers and thumb screws with the R12RT, R12ST, R12R and K12R 5.5" rear wheel. Use the 3/4" spacers and thumb screws with the R12GS, R12S, K12R 6.0", K12S and K12GT rear wheels. The latest adapters are being supplied with two pairs of thumb screw holes. Use the pair of holes that are closest to the edge of your wheel. So far the only wheel I've heard about that needs the inner pair of holes is the very early production RT. If you find another wheel that uses the inner holes please let me know. Update: I have heard of four early production (Jan and Jun '04, Feb '05) GS spoke wheels that had their center hole very slightly undersized. Both owners were able to get the adapter to fit after sanding the inner surface of the wheel center hole slightly. I have no explanation for this anomaly. If you run into the same thing please let me know the model and production date which can be found on the GS under the left side plastic cover below the front of your seat.

Be sure to tighten the thumb screws evenly so as not to cock the adapter in the hole.

BMW R12GS/RT/S/ST/R, K12R/S/GT BG13 comes with one cone and one adapter. The cone is used on the left side of the front wheel. Screw one of the thumb screws into the hole on the outer edge of the adapter and use it on the right side of the front wheel.

The adapter attaches to the rear wheel by sliding it in from the drive side. Please refer to the pictures below. Be sure to remove the wing screw that holds the adapter on the shaft when mounting the front wheel. It is not necessary and will affect your balance. The thumb screws and spacers hold the adapter in place without marring the paintwork. The adapter is supplied with (2) pairs of plastic spacers. One pair is 1/2" long and the other pair is 3/4" long. Use the 1/2" spacers and both thumb screws with the R12RT, R12ST, R12R and K12R 5.5" rear wheel. Use the 3/4" spacers and both thumb screws with the R12GS, R12S, K12R 6.0", K12S and K12GT rear wheels. There are two pairs of thumb screw holes. Use the pair of holes that are closest to the edge of your wheel. So far the only wheel I've heard about that needs the inner pair of holes is the very early production RT. If you find another wheel that uses the inner holes please let me know. Update: I have heard of four early production (Jan and Jun '04, Feb '05) GS spoke wheels that had their center hole very slightly undersized. The owners were able to get the adapter to fit by sanding the inner surface of the wheel center hole slightly. I have no explanation for this anomaly. If you run into the same thing please let me know the model and production date which can be found on the GS under the left side plastic cover below the front of your seat.

Be sure to tighten the thumb screws evenly so as not to cock the adapter in the hole.

	Slide the adapter in from the drive side of the rear wheel.
	Looking at the non-drive side of the rear wheel with the adapter in place. Notice that there are two pairs of holes. Please use the pair that are closest to the edge of the wheel opening. In this case we will use the pair at the 2 and 8 o'clock positions.
	Slide the appropriate spacers onto the thumb screws and thread them into the adapter. They will hold the adapter securely in position. You can now slide the axle through the adapter and suspend the assembly with the bearing blocks as normal.

Boss Hoss BHC comes with four cones and two shafts. The 5/7" shaft and cones are for the rear wheel. The 1/2" shaft and cones are for the front wheel. The bearing blocks will fit both shafts. The cone pairs are interchangeable right to left.

Ducati Single-Sided DU44 comes with two 2" diameter cones. They can be used on either side.

Ducati Single-Sided DU55 comes with one 2.3" and one 2" diameter cone. The 2.3" cone is used on the drive side of the rear wheel. When mounting the front use the 2" cone on the speedometer side of the wheel.

Harley HD1 for bikes with 1" axles come with two cones. One cone has a short taper. Use that one on the belt drive side of the rear wheel. Cones can be used on either side of the front wheel.

Harley ST3L for bikes with 3/4" axles come with two cones. One cone has a smaller tapered end. Use that one on the sprocket side of the rear wheel on a chain drive bike and on the opposite side on a belt drive bike. Cones can be used on either side of the front wheel.

Honda VFR HOV Version I comes with three cones. The large diameter cone is used on the drive side of the rear wheel with one of the universal cones on the other side. The front uses both universal cones. Version II comes with one universal cone and one compound taper cone. The compound taper cone is used on the drive side of the rear wheel and either side of the front wheel. The universal cone is used on the other side.

Honda Hawk HAWK comes with three cones. Leave the original Honda adapter installed in the non-drive side of the rear wheel. The large diameter cone is used on the drive side of the rear wheel with one of the long cones on the other side. The front uses both long cones.

Honda ST1300 comes with two cones. The one with the smaller tapered end is used on the non-drive side of the rear wheel and on either side of the front wheel.

KTM KTMA comes with two compound taper cones. If your rear wheel has spacers that fit inside the wheel bearings then leave them installed. The taper at the end of the cone is designed to fit inside them. The front wheel bearings have an inside diameter of 30mm which will fit the second taper. The cones can be used on either side of the wheel.

Long Axle FZB comes with two 1.45" diameter cones and a 14" axle. The cones can be used on either side.

MV Augusta MVA comes with one 2.5", one 2.75" and one 1.45" diameter cones. The 2.5" cone is used on the drive side of the rear wheel. The 2.75" cone is used on the non-drive side of the rear wheel. The 2.5" and the 1.45" cones are used on the front wheel.

Triumph Single-Sided TRI comes with three cones of different diameters. The 2.5" compound taper cone is used on the drive side of the rear wheel along with the 2" cone on the other side. The front uses the 1.45" cone and the 2.5" compound taper cone. You can use them on either side.

Vespa ET2/4 VET10 comes with two different cones. The compound taper cone is used on the mounting flange side of both front and rear wheels.

Vinyl End Caps
The balancer comes equipped with black vinyl end caps installed. They are there in order to keep the bearing blocks from inadvertently falling off while carrying the balancer and to keep the assembly together while in storage. My thanks to Rick of webBikeWorld^SM for the idea. They are easily removed by pushing the bearing block off the shaft.

Setup Procedure

If your bike is equipped with a rubber cushioned sprocket carrier it must be removed. The cones must press directly against the wheel bearings. If you balance the wheel by supporting it via the sprocket carrier you will not get an accurate balance and probably won't have enough room with the supplied shaft. The carrier is not fixed to the wheel which means the wheel will not be true when supported by the balancer. Trust me on this one :-) The same goes for spacers that do not slide tightly into the wheel bearings. If you support the wheel by a spacer which does not go inside the bearing you'll actually be supporting it by the axle seal which is rubber! No good!
Slide one of the cones taper first onto the axle.
Slide the assembly through the center of the wheel hub.
Slide the remaining cone taper first onto the axle from the other side.
Situate the axle so it is roughly centered using the tire as the reference point.
Secure one of the cones to the axle by tightening the wing screw. Push the remaining cone against the wheel hub. Orientate the wing screws 180° from each other so they don't affect the balance. Both cones need to be snug against their respective hubs. An easy way to do this is to flip the wheel on its side so it is resting on the balancer axle with the tightened cone. Now simply push the top cone down and tighten the wing screw.
Slide a bearing block on each end of the axle. Slide it on only far enough so that the axle is fully through the bearing block.
Now take the assembled wheel and balancer and position it between your two supports so that the bearing blocks are holding up the assembly and the wheel is free to spin. You’ll notice the result is an almost friction-free mounting which will allow for a very accurate balance.

A note about the wing screws
As you use the wing screws the end that contacts the shaft will most likely mushroom slightly depending on how hard you tighten them. This is because the screw is softer than the shaft so as not to mar it and because the screw threads run all the way to the end. When you loosen the screw you only need to turn it very slightly so in use the mushroomed portion of the screw never comes in contact with the threads in the cone. The only time you might notice that the screw end is mushroomed would be if you removed the screw completely. In this case you may find the screw snug or turns uneven. This is normal and does not present any problem.

Maintenance
Since the shaft is steel it will rust in damp environs. Spraying it occasionally with WD40 will keep it looking new for years to come. Any nicks that develop in the axle can be smoothed using fine emery paper. Please be careful when handling and storing the cones and in particular those that have a small nose. If you drop them the taper might get damaged and if they land on their nose and it gets distorted you will not be able to slide the shaft through the bore since there is only .003" clearance. Guess how I know! If this happens please return the cone and I will repair it for you if possible. Please don't try to repair the bore yourself. The bearings are sealed for life so there is no maintenance required.

Your satisfaction is absolutely essential. If you have any concerns please let me know so they can be resolved.

If you have any questions or comments please leave feedback or I can be reached in the shop at 714-842-9210.

Thank you!
Marc